Spring 2003 (Vol. IV, No. 1) Table of Contents
- President’s Message
- Global Book Town Independent Booksellers
- Trances That Heal: Rites, Rituals and Brain Chemicals
- For Love or Money?
- Mystery Novel Characters: Often Miscast for Films, TV
- Producing Your Own Newsletter
- Pitspopany Press
- Stanford Libraries Create Saroyan Prize for Writers
- The Quiet Revolution: The Expansion of the Used Book Market ©
- Good ethics are good business (but don’t forget your margins)
- Books at Auction
- Constant Change – Columbia Books
- English Teacher Efforts To Interest Teens in Books, Reading
- The Future of Used Bookselling – An Observation
- Never Mind The Book, How’s The Cover?
- Ephemeral Assays – the Paper Trail
- Miami Book Fair International
- The 2002 Oregon Antiquarian Book Fair
- OP MAGAZINE: A New Book Magazine
- Here’s A Clue For Mystery Fans: Left Coast Crime 2003 Opens Feb. 27
- L.A. Festival of Books Set for April 25-27
- Bookseller Monthly
- From the Editor
- Hot Links: Women in the Book Trade
- IOBA Q & A Column
- PDA’s In Bookselling
- A Weighty Subject
- Interview of Robert Westbrook, Author
- Review: Sic Ravings
- secondhandbooks.org: buy and sell books online for FREE!
- Chrislands Online Bookstores
- Biblio.com Announcement
Q. I’ve got a book, printed in Switzerland in 1944, appears to be perfect bound, but with flimsy cardboard boards, no endpapers (not removed – they were never there). And it has a dustjacket. What do I call this binding? Flexible boards? Is there a more precise term?
A. Flexible binding should work fine. Limp binding seems to only apply to suede or soft leather.
Q. What is the name of the plastic binding of interwoven fingers (for lack of a better term.) Not a spiral binding.
Bruce (Bookends Bookstore)
A. I believe you are referring to a comb binding. If the ‘plastic binding of interwoven fingers’ you described were laid flat (don’t try it, because the plastic might be too brittle for that) it would resemble a comb.
Q. Can some savvy list member tell me how to change the shipping default on ABE upward?
A. Go to Your Books. There is a new special little box at the right side of the screen that says “Adjust Shipping Rates.”
Q. Hope someone can help me. Several days ago I received an order through ABE. The customer had left a card number, but when I processed it the card was declined. I emailed the buyer asking for a new card number or a check, but the customer has not responded. I would like to cancel the sale, so that I am not charged the commission. Does anyone know how to do this?
Donna (The Eloquent Page)
A. Recent message to me from ABE:
” To process a refund for the commission fee charged by ABEbooks, please follow the steps below:
1. Log in to your Bookseller account
2. Click on “Your sales”
3. Click on “abebooks”
4. Click on “Review and process your orders”
5. Select “abebooks” as the program and select “Processed” as the status
6. Click “List orders”
7. Find the order that needs to be refunded
8. Under “Review and process”, click “Request a Refund” (refers to commission fees)
9. Put a check mark in the box beside the item to be refunded
10. In the drop down box, select the reason for the refund i.e., “Incomplete Sale”
11. Type your exact reason in the comment box (this will be sent to the buyer) i.e., Credit card rejected
12. Click “Initiate Return”
The refund for commission fees is now complete.”
John and Carole Ansley
Q. I don’t usually deal in ex-library books, but have recently come across a few that were just too valuable to pass up. The dust jackets are glued to the pastedown endpapers with dirty dust sleeves covering the jackets. Do you leave the jacket glued to the endpaper and sell the book as is with a dirty dustwrapper, or do you peel the jacket off the endpages, remove the old mylar wrap and just deal with the unsightly glue marks that result from this? If so, do any of you have a good method for removing a glued dust jacket?
A. Try HEAT first. Most library adhesives react well with heat. I use a household iron and put stiff paper on top as a shield. However, others have suggested putting a quilting iron in my toolbox as it has a much smaller ‘head’. If the Rubber Cement has oxidized too much, and won’t soften, there is such a thing as Rubber Cement Thinner. It’s hard to find – an art store may have it. If I have to use it I sneak it onto the offending adhesive with a q-tip [remember it will melt anything plastic].
We thank all of our contributors.
Jean S. McKenna, Chairman Education Committee
Check out the Independent Online Booksellers Association Website